A jon boat trolling motor mount is the one piece of hardware that decides whether your motor stays put. The hull is flat, low-sided aluminum with narrow gunnels and often no flat spot at the bow at all, so the bracket has to adapt to the boat rather than the other way around.
That is why picking the best trolling motor mounts for jon boats is harder than picking a motor. Anyone can buy a 55 lb thrust unit; getting it to sit still on a 12 foot jon takes a bracket matched to your gunnel width, your shaft length, and your tolerance for drilling holes in thin aluminum.
We spent weeks comparing eight mounts that jon boat owners actually buy, reading the review data on each, and mapping them to the hull problems that show up on these boats. Our picks for 2026 cover a clamp-on bow bracket for narrow gunnels, a bolted deck plate, a transom bracket, and three stabilizers that stop the motor walking in chop.
Table of Contents
Top 3 Best Jon Boat Trolling Motor Mounts (October 2026)
EZ Mount Universal Bow Bracket
- Clamp-on bow fit
- No drilling required
- Marine-grade aluminum
- For gunnels under 3 inch wide
besttruck Universal Transom Mount
- Alloy steel construction
- Handles high-thrust motors
- Four-hole installation
- 1 year warranty
Brocraft Removable Deck Mount
- Marine aluminum and nylon
- Removable bracket
- Compact deck plate
- Saltwater rated
All 8 Mounts Compared in 2026
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
| EZ Mount Universal Bow Bracket |
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Check Latest Price |
| Brocraft Removable Deck Mount |
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Check Latest Price |
| besttruck Universal Transom Mount |
|
Check Latest Price |
 Endura Transom Bracket 2991815A |
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Check Latest Price |
 Deargooday Cast Aluminum Transom Bracket |
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Check Latest Price |
 RAM Tough-Claw Stabilizer |
|
Check Latest Price |
 CLLOMAGY Stabilizer Mount |
|
Check Latest Price |
 FPN 360 Adjustable Stabilizer |
|
Check Latest Price |
1. EZ Mount Universal Bow Bracket – Clamp-On Fit for Sub-3-Inch Gunnels
Pro Controll EZ Mount – Universal Trolling Motor Mount for Jon Boats | Bow Installation | No Drilling Required | Fits Gunnels < 3" Wide | Easy to Install
Marine-grade aluminum
Bow mount
No drilling required
Gunnels under 3 inch wide and 1 inch deep
Pros
- Fits jon and utility gunnels under 3 inch wide
- Clamp-on install in minutes with no tools
- Marine-grade aluminum stays lightweight
- Leaves no permanent modification
Cons
- Only works on gunnels under 3 inch wide
- Bow-mount design depends on gunnel geometry
This is the bracket jon boat owners mention most often when they describe the install as easy, and the 496 reviews behind it back that up. It clamps onto the bow gunnel and holds the motor with no holes drilled anywhere on the hull.
The spec that matters most is the fit window: gunnels under 3 inch wide and 1 inch deep. That covers a lot of small jon boats, and it is the number you measure before you order anything else.
Marine-grade aluminum keeps the whole assembly light, which matters on a hull that already carries your battery up front. Nothing about it is heavy enough to change how the boat trims.
Because the mount grips instead of bolting, you can take the motor off in about as long as it takes to loosen a clamp. Trailering to a ramp and worrying about a locked boat go away as separate problems.
On the gear side, the review base skews strongly positive, with roughly 70 percent of ratings at five stars. That is the pattern of a product that simply does what it says on a boat built the way it expects.
What it will not do is rescue a wide gunnel. If yours measures over 3 inch, this bracket slips or refuses to seat, and you need a plate or a riser instead.
What you need to check before ordering
Measure the gunnel at the exact point where the bracket will sit, not at the widest part of the bow. On many jons the taper means the front section is narrower than the middle.
Also measure depth. The fit window includes a 1 inch depth limit, and a deep-sided hull at a wide station can still be out of range.
Where it falls short
This is a single-purpose bow clamp. It gives you no way to raise the motor, so on a low-freeboard hull the shaft can be short of the water once you are loaded with two anglers.
It also offers no locking point for a padlock, which matters if your boat sits at a shared dock or a ramp overnight.
2. Brocraft Removable Deck Mount – Bolted Plate With a Removable Bracket
Brocraft Trolling Motor Mount Bracket, Removable Deck Mount for Clamp-On Electric Trolling Motors, Marine Aluminum & Nylon, Boat Motor Mount
Marine aluminum and nylon
Removable deck mount
3 pounds
Recommended for salt water
Pros
- Deck plate stays on while the motor bracket removes
- Aluminum and nylon suit fresh and salt water
- Compact standard size for small decks
- Backing plates are a common owner add-on
Cons
- Included 1 inch bolts are too short once washers go on
- Knob can vibrate loose in transit
- Occasional reports of the post not fitting the arm
This is the one to buy if you want a permanent footprint on the deck but still want the motor off in under a minute. The plate is bolted down once; the bracket that grips the motor lifts away for transport or storage.
Owners consistently describe the aluminum as sturdy, and the part is rated by the manufacturer for salt water use. At 3 pounds it is the heaviest of the deck options here, but it stays well within what a jon bow should carry.
The standard size suits a small deck. There is a larger bracket variant in the same family if your plate footprint needs to grow.
The most repeated complaint across reviews is not the bracket itself but the hardware in the box. Owners report that the supplied 1 inch bolts run out of thread once the deck plate and washers are stacked.
The fix is simple and everyone who has done this already knows it: buy longer stainless bolts and add a backing plate under the deck. Jon hulls are thin, so the backing plate distributes load and saves the threads.
One reviewer reported a crack in the aluminum arm at the bend point, so keep an eye on that area if you run a heavy motor in rough water.
What you need to check before ordering
Confirm your deck has a genuinely flat spot roughly the size of the plate. A rounded jon bow will not hold a flat plate without a riser under it.
Decide now whether you want a removable motor or a permanent one. Bolting the plate through the deck means a permanent mark on the hull when you sell the boat.
Where it falls short
This is a bolted install, so it is not a no-drill option. If you rent your boat or plan to sell it in a few years, that matters more than most buyers expect.
The knob that holds the bracket to the arm has a habit of working loose over rough miles. A zip tie or a second clamp is cheap insurance.
3. besttruck Universal Transom Mount – Low-Cost Steel Stern Bracket
Universal Transom Trolling Motor Mount for Kayaks/Kayak Motor Mount
Alloy steel with black nylon
Transom mount
1.48 kg
1 year warranty
Pros
- Holds 55 to 80 lb thrust motors without shifting
- Alloy steel resists water immersion
- Four drilled holes make install straightforward
- Also works as a PowerPole mount point
Cons
- Heavier than expected for a small boat
- Some Allen heads arrived loose
- Included bolts may be short without a backing plate
For a jon boat with a flat stern, this transom bracket is the least complicated way to get a big motor mounted. Owners report it holding 55 to 80 lb thrust units without shifting or flexing, which is more than most cheap universal brackets manage.
Its 4.6 rating sits behind only two mounts in this roundup, and the review data describes it as overbuilt for the money rather than bargain-bin flimsy.
Its four drilled holes mean you are bolting through the transom, and the manufacturer says so plainly. Use stainless and bed each bolt with sealant.
Alloy steel with black nylon is a sensible pairing for a hull that lives in water. The material does not care about immersion, and there is no anodized finish to scratch through.
The bonus is versatility. Because the footprint matches a PowerPole pattern, the same plate can carry a shallow-water anchor stick when the motor comes off.
Warranty coverage is one year, which is typical for a mount in this price class and shorter than the lifetime coverage on the RAM stabilizer.
What you need to check before ordering
Measure your transom height and confirm the motor shaft will clamp into the bracket throat. A very low transom on a small jon can leave too little clamping surface.
Check that your hull is thick enough to take the supplied bolt length. Thin stamped aluminum wants a backing plate and longer fasteners.
Where it falls short
At 1.48 kg it is the heaviest of the small mounts here. On a boat you lift onto a trailer by hand, that is real weight in your hands.
Several buyers found the Allen heads loose in the box. Torque them yourself at install rather than assuming they are set.
4. Endura Transom Bracket PN# 2991815A – OEM-Style Replacement
Endura Transom Mount Bracket PN# 2991815A
Black plastic construction
Transom mount
2.3 pounds
OEM replacement part
Pros
- Direct replacement for the original Endura bracket
- Straightforward install for handy owners
- Also holds poles or a paddle used as a rudder
- Lower cost than the branded original
Cons
- Plastic threads can strip against metal screws
- One unit arrived without the shaft lock
- No instructions included
This bracket exists because the original Endura transom mount cracked, which is the single most common reason a jon owner ends up shopping for one in the first place. It is a direct replacement-style part, not a universal design.
At 2.3 pounds and 11.5 x 8.03 x 6.5 inches, it is compact and light. That matters on a small hull where the motor is already the heaviest thing on board.
Owners also use it to hold a pole or a paddle as a rudder, which makes it more than a single-purpose part.
The 4.0 rating is the lowest in this roundup, and the cause is narrow and specific: durability around the plastic threads. One owner reported stripped threads that nearly cost them a motor over the transom.
That risk is manageable if you know it exists. Use stainless screws and thread-lock compound, and never force a screw into a plastic boss that is already chewed.
Verify the shaft lock is in the box before you start. One unit arrived without the telescoping lock, and without it a shaft can walk out over bumps.
What you need to check before ordering
Confirm your existing motor is an Endura mount and the bolt pattern matches. This is a replacement bracket, not a clamp that fits anything.
Be ready for a slow install if you have limited DIY experience. Owners report around an hour of work, with no instructions in the box.
Where it falls short
Plastic threads paired with metal screws is a combination the reviews flag repeatedly. Treat it as a part to inspect each season rather than install and forget.
It is also the least corrosion-resistant material here. In brackish marsh water, check it more often than the aluminum options.
5. Deargooday Cast Aluminum Transom Bracket – Quick Release With Steel Hardware
Universal Transom Trolling Motor Mounting Bracket for Kayaks/Kayak Marine Board Backing Plate Mount Bracket for Clamp-on Electric Trolling Motors
Cast aluminum and nylon
Stainless steel hardware
3 pounds
1 year warranty
Pros
- 4.7 average rating with no one- or two-star reviews
- Full-cast aluminum body
- Stainless steel hardware
- Quick-release design for fast motor removal
- Four-hole install using supplied hardware
Cons
- Requires drilling four holes
- Not a no-drill option
- Rated for clamp-on electric motors only
This bracket shares a fit pattern with the Brocraft above, which makes it a direct alternative if you prefer a cast aluminum body and a stainless-hardware quick release instead of a knob-and-post design.
Its 4.7 average is the highest of the primary mounts in this roundup, with roughly 78 percent of ratings at five stars and no one- or two-star reviews in the set.
At 3 pounds it is built for boats with a real deck or transom to bolt into. The four holes are drilled, so plan the layout before you cut.
What you need to check before ordering
Make sure your stern or deck gives you a flat area large enough for the mounting pattern, which is the same one used for PowerPole-style mounts.
Check the deck thickness against the supplied hardware and add a backing plate if the skin is thin. Jon hulls often are.
Where it falls short
It is electric trolling motors only, and the manufacturer is clear that it is never for a gas outboard. Do not improvise around that.
The review base is small at 60, so you are trusting a limited set of long-term reports. Check the warranty terms with your order.
6. RAM Tough-Claw Stabilizer – Rail Mount That Stops Motor Walk
RAM Mounts Trolling Motor Stabilizer with Tough-Claw Medium Clamp
Marine aluminum and composite
Clamps 1 to 1.875 inch rails
2.5 inch round AMPS plate
Lifetime warranty
Pros
- Highest rating in the roundup at 4.8
- Clamp grips rails from 1 to 1.875 inch with rubber pads
- Stainless steel hardware and composite body
- Lifetime manufacturer warranty
Cons
- Rail stabilizer
- not a hull or transom motor mount
- Highest price point among these picks
Jon boat owners talk about motor walk constantly, and the community answer that keeps coming up is a stabilizer mount rather than a stronger bracket. This is the most widely endorsed version of that idea.
The Tough-Claw medium clamp grips round, square, and odd-shaped rails from 1 inch to 1.875 inch in outer diameter, with rubber pads that do not chew the finish.
Its 4.8 rating is the highest in this group, with about 86 percent of reviews at five stars and a lifetime warranty behind it.
The 2.5 inch round plate uses the standard AMPS hole pattern, so it pairs with the usual RAM C-size holders. That means you can build a stabilizer arm without hunting for proprietary hardware.
Build quality is the story in the reviews. Owners describe the grip and the warranty as the reasons they would buy it again, not the feature list.
On a jon, this is most useful when the motor is mounted on the bow and the boat is running in wind or current rather than sitting in a stump field.
What you need to check before ordering
Measure the rail or bar you plan to clamp to, outer diameter, and confirm it falls between 1 inch and 1.875 inch. Outside that range the clamp will not seat.
Plan how the stabilizer arm reaches your motor shaft or control head. The plate is the anchor; the arm geometry is up to you.
Where it falls short
This does not attach your motor to the boat. It is a stabilizer that reduces movement, and it needs a separate transom or deck mount underneath it.
It is the most expensive pick in this roundup, which makes it a second purchase rather than a first one for many buyers.
7. CLLOMAGY Stabilizer Mount – Holds Minn Kota Bow Motors Down
Trolling Motor Stabilizer Mount Trolling Motor Support for Minn Kota
Aluminum and 304 stainless
Bow mount stabilizer
1.6 pounds
7 angle settings
Pros
- Holds an 80 lb thrust Minn Kota motor down in wakes
- Strap and arm stop the control head hitting the hull
- 304 stainless and marine-grade aluminum
- Removable low-profile base folds for trailering
Cons
- Fixed arm length was too short for one owner's boat
- Base requires drilling holes in the deck
- Some listed Minn Kota models need shaft-height trimming
This is the stabilizer aimed squarely at the rough-water problem. Owners credit it with holding an 80 lb thrust Minn Kota motor down over wakes and at speed, and preventing expensive damage to the unit.
It covers a long list of Minn Kota models, from 1991 PowerDrive motors through the 2007 to 2016 Terrova, the later BT generations, and the Riptide and Ulterra lines.
At 1.6 pounds it adds almost nothing to your load budget, which is why it is the practical pick over a heavier rail stabilizer for a small hull.
The arm sets at seven angles up to 180 degrees, and the strap can be cut to match your shaft height. That adjustability is the feature that separates it from a fixed kick plate.
The stow position is worth noting on a jon. The arm folds down and the base is low profile, so the boat still fits under a trailer bunk the way it did before.
Because the base bolts to the deck, you are drilling here too. Use stainless fasteners and seal them into thin aluminum.
What you need to check before ordering
Match your motor model and year against the compatibility list before anything else. This bracket is specific to Minn Kota shafts, not universal hardware.
Measure shaft height and be ready to trim the arm. Some listed models need shortening to fit, and finding that out after the box is open costs you a return.
Where it falls short
It is not a mount that holds the motor on the boat. Pair it with a transom or deck bracket or it has nothing to stabilize.
Owners also report that the drilling requirement is more than they expected on a boat they wanted to keep unmodified.
8. FPN 360 Adjustable Stabilizer – Budget Vibration Control
FPN Trolling Motor Stabilizer Mount Support for Minn kota Terrova/Riptide Terrova/Ulterra/PowerDrive, 360° Adjustable Anti-Vibration Trolling Motor Shaft Clamp Mount
Aluminum alloy and composite
5.91 inch arm
Dual 1 inch ball heads
0.4 kg
Pros
- Dual rubber ball heads absorb vibration and stop bounce
- 360 degree rotation dials in any hull angle
- Silicone cap grip holds the shaft still
- Knob-turn quick release on a low-profile base
Cons
- Sold as a support
- not a primary hull or transom mount
- Highest one-star share in the group at 9 percent
This is the lightweight, adjustable option for anglers who run a smaller motor and mainly want to kill bounce and vibration over the boat floor.
The two 1 inch rubber ball heads rotate through a full 360 degrees, so you can set the angle for your hull shape and shaft height rather than living with a fixed bend.
A silicone cap grip holds the shaft in place, and the knob-turn release on the base means you can drop it when the motor comes off.
At 0.4 kg and a 5.91 inch aluminum arm, it is the least imposing stabilizer here. On a jon where every pound on the bow changes how the boat floats, that is the point.
Owners use it on kayaks, canoes, and small fishing boats, and the fit range suits a low-sided hull where a taller arm would foul the deck.
Its 9 percent one-star share is the highest in this group, with durability complaints over time rather than an install problem.
What you need to check before ordering
Confirm the shaft diameter fits the 1 inch ball heads and that the arm length reaches your setup. A short arm simply does not brace anything.
Check the base footprint against your deck. It is drilled, and a rounded bow will not take it flat without a riser.
Where it falls short
It is a support, not a mount. You still need a bracket to hold the motor on the boat, so budget for two purchases if you are starting from nothing.
With 59 reviews the long-term record is thin. Expect to inspect the ball joints and the base plate each season.
How We Picked These Mounts?
We built this list around one question: which mounts actually solve a jon boat problem. Every product here came from hardware jon owners and small-boat anglers buy, not from a general marine catalog.
For each one we read the full owner review set, then sorted the complaints into the categories that decide a jon fit: gunnel width limits, hole size and backing plates, corrosion in brackish water, and the flex and rattle that owners blame for spooking fish in shallow water.
We also cross-checked each mount against forum reports. The clamp-on bow plate pattern, the stabilizer recommendation for motor walk, and the long stainless bolt with a backing plate all show up repeatedly in jon boat discussions, and the picks here reflect what owners report actually holds up.
We did not put these on the water ourselves. Every rating, weight, dimension, and warranty figure in this roundup comes from the manufacturer listing and owner review data, and we have called out where a claim comes from a single review rather than a pattern.
How to Choose a Trolling Motor Mount for a Jon Boat?
Start by measuring your boat, not by browsing brackets. The gunnel width, the transom height, and the flatness of your bow deck eliminate most of the field in about five minutes with a tape measure.
Bow mount, transom mount, or deck mount: where to put it
Where you mount a trolling motor on a jon boat comes down to one fact: most jons have no bow casting deck. Where there is no flat surface, the transom mount is the practical default. Where there is a flat spot, a bow plate gives you better steering control in wind and current.
A transom mount puts all the weight aft, which keeps the bow light and the boat tracking straight in shallow water. A bow mount puts the thrust where you need it for holding a heading, but it puts the motor and battery weight up front on a hull that barely tolerates it.
Stabilizer mounts sit alongside either choice. They are not a third location; they are hardware that reduces movement of the motor you have already placed.
No-drill clamp versus a bolted plate
A clamp-on bracket wins if you want a boat you can sell without a mark on it, or if you rent. A bolted plate wins on stiffness, because a screwed plate does not flex the way a clamp does when you hit a wave.
Jon hulls are thin, so bolting carries its own cost. Once a screw is removed and replaced a few times, aluminum threads elongate and the hole grows. Backing plates and marine sealant slow that down but do not undo it.
If you bolt, use stainless steel fasteners and bed every hole. If you cannot commit to either, a DIY riser plate lets you test a position before you cut a single hole.
Material and saltwater corrosion on an aluminum hull
Aluminum and aluminum is a mild pairing, but bare metal contact still stains and still weeps at the contact point. Put a barrier between any bracket and the hull, and rinse the area after every salt trip.
304 stainless hardware is the stated requirement for aluminum hulls, and every fastener we list here is stainless or the manufacturer specifies stainless. Do not let hardware grade be the place you save money.
Plastic hardware is the compromise option. It will not corrode, but it is the least stiff and the reviews show it is the first thing to fail on a working boat.
Gunnel width: the measurement that decides the fit
Jon gunnels are often under 3 inch wide, and many mounts sold as universal slip or rock on them. Measure at the bow, at the widest point, and at the transom corner, because a tapered bow gives you three different answers.
If your gunnel is wider than a clamp can take, a riser is the workaround that opens up the whole market of deck and bow plates. A plywood or aluminum riser creates the flat surface the bracket expects.
Matching shaft length and thrust to the hull
Jon boats are light, and they need less thrust than the boat length suggests. A heavy motor on a light hull overpowers it, drains the battery faster, and pushes the bow down when loaded.
Shaft length has to clear the hull and the water at your normal load. With two anglers and a full battery, an untrimmed shaft can rise out of the water and you lose steering entirely.
How big of a trolling motor you need for a 12 foot jon boat is usually answered by loaded weight rather than length. Measure what you actually carry, then pick the mount that accepts that motor head and shaft without flexing.
If you are still choosing the motor itself, our picks in the trolling motor roundup cover thrust classes and shaft options, and the kayak trolling motor guide covers the lighter mounts used on small craft.
How to Mount a Trolling Motor on an Aluminum Jon Boat
This is the sequence for a bolt-on bow or deck plate, which is the most common permanent install on a jon. A clamp-on mount skips steps 4 through 7 entirely.
Measure and mark the mount location on the bow edge or deck, checking that the plate clears ribs, wiring, and any existing rod holders.
Confirm the plate sits on genuinely flat metal. If the bow is rounded, stop here and build a riser first.
Drill pilot holes a size or two under your fastener, and deburr every hole with a file or a scraper.
Seal each hole with marine sealant and let it cure before you insert a screw.
Apply butyl tape or bedding sealant between the plate and the hull if the plate is not itself sealed on both faces.
Install stainless steel bolts, backing plate below the deck or hull skin, wide washers on top, and a thin coat of sealant on the threads.
Tighten bolts gradually in a cross pattern until snug. On thin aluminum, snug is enough; over-torque strips the threads and enlarges the hole permanently.
Fit the motor bracket or quick-release head to the plate and confirm the shaft clears the hull as the motor is trimmed up and down.
Mount the stabilizer if the boat runs in wind, current, or wake, and set its angle with the boat fully loaded.
Re-check every bolt after the first few trips and once more after a month on the water.
Build a DIY plywood and aluminum riser for a rounded bow
Forum builders on jon boats converge on the same fix when the bow has no flat spot: cut a riser that turns the curve into a surface. One commonly cited size is about 16 inch wide by 2.5 inch tall, which is wide enough to carry a plate and tall enough to clear the hull curve.
Template the riser by holding a flat piece of plywood or thin aluminum plate against the bow curve and marking the high and low points.
Cut the riser roughly 16 inch wide and 2.5 inch tall, then trim it in small passes until it seats without rocking.
Shape the underside to match the hull curve so the riser loads evenly instead of pivoting on two points.
Bolt the riser to the bow edge with four stainless screws through the flattest areas of metal you can find, following the pattern jon builders describe on forums.
Seal every hole and every screw head with marine sealant before the riser gets wet.
Once the riser is solid, bolt your mount plate to the top of it as if it were deck.
Boat and trailer hardware tends to be the weak link on a setup like this, so check the coupler rating and tire pressure before you load the boat. Our trailer hitch guide covers the towing side, and our inflatable boat picks are the opposite end of the size spectrum for comparison.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where to mount a trolling motor on a jon boat?
Most jon boats have no flat bow casting deck, so the transom is the practical default and keeps the bow light. If your bow has a genuinely flat spot, a bolted plate or clamp-on bow bracket gives better steering control in wind and current, at the cost of weight up front. Measure the gunnel width before buying a clamp, because mounts built for gunnels under 3 inch wide will not fit a wider one.
How to mount a trolling motor on an aluminum boat?
Measure and mark the location, confirm the surface is flat, drill pilot holes smaller than your fasteners, deburr, and seal every hole with marine sealant. Install stainless steel bolts with a backing plate under thin hull skin and wide washers on top. Tighten in a cross pattern until snug only, since over-torque strips aluminum threads and permanently enlarges the hole. Re-check the bolts after the first few trips.
Should I mount my trolling motor on the front or back of my boat?
Mount on the back if your jon has no flat bow deck, or if you mostly fish shallow water and stumps where a light bow tracks straight. Mount on the front only if the bow is flat and you need the steering authority to hold a heading in wind or current. Front mounting adds motor and battery weight to a hull that is already light.
What are the best screws for an aluminum boat?
Use stainless steel, ideally 304 or better, and never hardware grade below marine. On thin jon hulls, add a backing plate under the skin so the load spreads instead of tearing the threads. Bed every hole with marine sealant, and expect the supplied short bolts in many kits to be inadequate once washers and a backing plate are stacked. Re-tighten after a month and check again each season.
What is the best brand of motor mounts?
There is no single winner, because jon boats come in too many shapes. Clamp-on universal brackets from Pro Controll fit narrow gunnels without drilling. Brocraft and cast aluminum universal plates cover bolted deck and transom installs. RAM is the most established name for stabilizers and rail-mounted support, and Johnson Outdoor covers OEM-style transom replacement brackets.
How big of a trolling motor do I need for a 12 foot jon boat?
Size on loaded weight rather than hull length, since a jon is light and over-thrusting it drains the battery and pushes the bow down. Check that the shaft is long enough to stay in the water with two anglers and a full battery aboard, and pick a mount whose bracket accepts that motor head without flexing under its own weight.
Final Verdict
If your jon has a gunnel under 3 inch wide and you refuse to drill it, the EZ Mount universal clamp is our pick for 2026, and its 496 reviews are the strongest evidence base in this group. With a flat stern, the besttruck transom bracket handles high thrust on a budget, and the Brocraft deck plate is the one to buy if you want a permanent install with a removable motor.
Add a stabilizer only after the mount itself is solid, because a stabilizer cannot fix a bracket that is already loose. The RAM Tough-Claw carries the strongest satisfaction and warranty signals here, while the CLLOMAGY unit is the better fit if you need something light and adjustable for rough water.
Measure your gunnel, check your bow for a flat spot, and buy the mount that matches the boat you actually own.